kitchencrunch

Crunching the kitchenstuff

Wheat do you eat?

After the last food symposium called Mad Foodcamp where Dan Barber made an excellent and inspiring presentation about wheat, I really started to think about the importance of the origin of our wheat that we use on a daily basis in our kitchens. The presentation was called „The taste of wheat” and it really got me thinking.

Having seen this very same presentation, I knew I had to move and act – take care of the wheat business so to speak!

So, after I spent rather long time searching around, we have finally found ourselves a farm, where we can buy nice, quality wheat. Lauri-Jaani farm from Läänemaa provides us with top notch wheat which we have already bought 2 tonns. Our good friends from Koplimäe grind it for us, so from now on our wheat products are not made from wheat with an unknown origin.

The sort we are using is called „Manu” and we chose that particular sort because of its good resistance to acidic soil. Also, during drought the grain remains fine and Manu has high quality indicators and high cooking qualities. It suits well into our climate and tastes even better thanks to that!

So, dear friends, whenever you come by Pädaste for lunch or dinner, you can be sure, that our wheat products are made of quality Estonian wheat as are all the Pädaste Gourmet products!

Bread starters

Bread starters

Manu

Manu

Organic wheat flour

Organic wheat flour

My 5 favourites from 2012

2012 is now in the past. Although we did not witness the world ending – and thank God we didn’t, it was a fine year for cuisine all around the world – a lot of new and exciting places and flavours.

By no means will I propose any kind of ranking here in this posting – just letting you guys know about my 5 favourite flavours from the last year. Hope you’ll find some of them either familiar or something worthwhile trying out yourselves if you let this posting guide you. Anyways – hope you have enjoyed the world full of flavours in 2012 and will continue to do so and discover a whole lot of new tastes out there in 2013. Salute!

One of my favourites from 2012 comes from my trip to Singapore. Restaurant Andre and his Octaphilosophy is truely one of the loveliest discoveries from the past year. I must say however, that as a chef I would feel somewhat without true roots in Singapore – there’s now forrest, no local farmers, just imported produce.

My favourite from that visit was: Eggplant, cockscomb; duck tongue terrine with smoked eggplant caviar and sesame salt

Eggplant, cockscomb; duck tongue terrine with smoked eggplant caviar and sesame salt

Eggplant, cockscomb; duck tongue terrine with smoked eggplant caviar and sesame salt

Septime had been in my list for ages – there’s a good reason for that. Nice and simple combinations – the things that rule the culinary world more and more each day.

Chefs Bertrand Grébaut’s  beautiful, seasonal cooking, pristine ingredients, and a fine list of natural wines to match. Septime chefs  are actually cooking, not just coming up with tricks and trends to obscure the fact that they don’t know what they’re doing, or that their ingredients aren’t good enough to be presented on their own without some sort of fuss and fanfare.

My favourite from that visit was: Panfried pike-perch with lightly pickled cabbages and seaweed cream

Panfried pike-perch with lightly pickled cabbages and seaweed cream

Panfried pike-perch with lightly pickled cabbages and seaweed cream

As we all know – all islands are connected under the sea 🙂 So it happened that in September we were on our way to a little island of France called Il de Yeu – the pictures you can see from Kitchencrunch blog as well. But before arriving to Il de Yeul we visited a small neighbouring island and its small fishing village where you can find restaurant La Marine run by Alexandre Couillon.

The definitely have one of the best degustation menus and the wine selection is just splendid. There were quite a few real lovely combinations, but my favorite one was:

Aged duck, perfectly cooked, served with tarragon foam and pickled cucumber.  Yet again a very simple but adorable combination!

Aged duck, prefectly cooked, served with tarragon foam and pickled cucumber

Aged duck, perfectly cooked, served with tarragon foam and pickled cucumber

It was a midsummer in the foodie heaven Copenhagen and this salad was a brilliant showstopper!

As Chef Bo Bech describes the food of restaurant Geist:

Food made with pure ingredients and pure enthusiasm. Served with joy alongside good pours. In surroundings that inspire gleeful seduction and free thought. 

And I must agree with him – this is how it’s done in Geist. Lightly tossed wild herbs, salicornes and marinated gooseberries add a pleasant acidity. Just brilliant!

Lightly tossed wild herbs, salicornes and marinated gooseberries

Lightly tossed wild herbs, salicornes and marinated gooseberries

Friends from island of Bornholm, Nicolai Norregaard and Rasmus Kofoed opened their restaurant in Copenhagen in the beginning of 2012. Its called Kadeau. Both of their restaurants in Bornholm and now in Copenhagen are excellent!

Not a very wide but always changing menu of simple combinations that are made from produce from Bornholm island are defining Kadeau and the quality they bring on the table.  This is what they have to say about it themselves:

The philosophy behind kadeau Bornholm and now also kadeau København is simple: To produce and serve food from Bornholm and the nordic regions and wines that, as far as possible, come from sustainable wine farmers that love their wines as much as we love food. We love food, and we love Bornholm.

Greetings to Copenhagen and while visiting the city go and check out their brand new spot called Pony.

My favourite from Kadeau’s degustation menu in July: Sweatbread with aspargus and extra rich beef sauce. 

Sweatbread with aspargus and extra rich beef sauce

Sweatbread with aspargus and extra rich beef sauce

 

Picture post from l’Ile d’Yeu, France

Life is full of wonderful surprises – some time ago I got invited to a foodfestival Les Gouts Uniques to prepare  ‘Dejeuner au Vert’ on l’Ile d’Yeu together with Alexandre Couillon from Noirmoutier. So at the moment this is exactly where I’m at. I will give you more detailed overview once I’m back, so until then you can enjoy some pictures.

Les Gouts Uniques is the festival I’m participating

 

White tuna is very common here

White tuna is a common produce here

 

Grave white tunafish with wild fennel and local salt

 

The island is also known for its potatos, that’s why we decided to prepare a Muhu classic – hapurokk

 

We will use those tomatos with white tunafish

We will use those tomatos with white tunafish

 

Most expensive beets I've seen

Most expensive beets I’ve seen

 

Organic farmer Georges supplied us with vegetables

Organic farmer Georges supplied us with vegetables

 

Georges had a strange looking clock – for sowing

 

We had dinner at La Marine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

kitchencrunch

Kes oleks võinud arvata, et meie alles teistkordselt korraldatav jalgpalliturniir sedavõrd populaarseks osutub, aga siin me nüüd oleme – 16 tiimi jalkahuvilisi kokkasid on andnud oma nõusoleku tõmmata selga jalkavormid, et ülla eesmärgi nimel palliplatsil teineteisega mõõtu võtta. Suure huviliste arvu tõttu tõstsime ka oma turniiri nädala võrra hilisemaks – loodetavasti on ilmataat meiega sama helde nagu eelmisel aastal, mil saime mängida mõnusas päiksepaistelises sügisilmas. Ka mänguaega oleme tänu sellele veidikene lühendanud – ehkki kokad on ilmselgelt suurepärases sportlikus vormis (khm..khm), tundus meile, et 15 minutit mängu kohta on täpselt paras aeg endast maksimum välja panna!

Pädaste Mõisa kokkade eestvedamisel leiab 23. septembril 2012, kell 12:00 Snelli Staadionil aset teine heategevuslik jalgpalliturniir Chefs’ Cup. Sel aastal on turniir võtnud esimest korda ka rahvusvahelisemad mõõtmed – osalema saabuvad ka üks Soome parimaid restorane, Michelini tärnidega pärjatud Chez Dominique ja Riia au ja uhkus restoran Vincents!  Võistkondade loosimine alagruppidesse toimub 7. septembril!

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Kokkade heategevuslik jalgpalliturniir Chefs Cup toimub 23. septembril!

Kes oleks võinud arvata, et meie alles teistkordselt korraldatav jalgpalliturniir sedavõrd populaarseks osutub, aga siin me nüüd oleme – 16 tiimi jalkahuvilisi kokkasid on andnud oma nõusoleku tõmmata selga jalkavormid, et ülla eesmärgi nimel palliplatsil teineteisega mõõtu võtta. Suure huviliste arvu tõttu tõstsime ka oma turniiri nädala võrra hilisemaks – loodetavasti on ilmataat meiega sama helde nagu eelmisel aastal, mil saime mängida mõnusas päiksepaistelises sügisilmas. Ka mänguaega oleme tänu sellele veidikene lühendanud – ehkki kokad on ilmselgelt suurepärases sportlikus vormis (khm..khm), tundus meile, et 15 minutit mängu kohta on täpselt paras aeg endast maksimum välja panna!

Pädaste Mõisa kokkade eestvedamisel leiab 23. septembril 2012, kell 12:00 Snelli Staadionil aset teine heategevuslik jalgpalliturniir Chefs’ Cup. Sel aastal on turniir võtnud esimest korda ka rahvusvahelisemad mõõtmed – osalema saabuvad ka üks Soome parimaid restorane, Michelini tärnidega pärjatud Chez Dominique ja Riia au ja uhkus restoran Vincents!  Võistkondade loosimine alagruppidesse toimub 7. septembril!

Praeguse seisuga jooksevad 23. septembril jalgpallimurule niisugused suurepärased meeskonnad:

1 Pädaste Mõis /Alexander

2 Laulasmaa Wicca

3 Põhjaka Mõis

4 Carmen Rent & Catering

5 Vincents (LAT)

6 Chez Dominique (FIN)

7 OKO

8 Sparkling grupp

9 Neikid

10 Resto Leib ja Aed

11 Tallink Victoria

12 Mekk

13 Swissotel

14 Senso

15 Cru

16 Platz/Ribe

* Juhul kui on soovi saada lisainformatsiooni turniiriga seonduva kohta, võib mulle või Priidule alati kirjutada:

peeterpihel@gmail.com

priit.pruul@gmail.com

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Teistkordselt toimuv Eesti kokkade heategevuslik jalgpalliturniir Chefs Cup kutsub Snelli staadionile jalgpallilahingule hulga Eesti parimaid restorane, et üheskoos aidata paremaks muuta Eesti toitu au sees hoidva Kihnu Kooli söökla seadmepark. Kokkade poolse kingituse üleandmine Kihnu Kooli sööklale leiab aset 1.- 7.oktoobrini toimuva Kihnu gurmee- ja rahvamuusikanädala raames 5.oktoobril algaval Kihnu Viiulifestivalil. Kihnu gurmeenädal on kohaliku toidu valmistamise õpitubade nädal, mis kulmineerub Kihnu Viiulifestivaliga ehk omamoodi rahvusliku viiulimuusika gurmeepeoga. Festivali kava ilmub õigepea aadressile www.kultuuriruum.ee.

Restoran Alexander järgib enda köögitegemistes Põhjala saarte köögi joont ning käesoleval aastal toetatakse just ühe väikesaare kooli. „Kihnlased on tuntud kui tugev ja kokkuhoidev kogukond, mis kindlasti väärib rohkem tähelepanu – loodame, et saame niimoodi omal väiksel moel ja paljude lahkete toetajate kaasabil sellele toredale saarele abiks olla,“ lausub turniiri korraldaja, Pädaste Mõisa Alexander Restorani peakokk Peeter Pihel.

Sarnaselt eelmisele aastale, toimub ka sel aastal heategevuslik loterii, millega on võimalik võita õhtusöök kahele turniirist osa võtvas restoranis. Piheli sõnul täitis eelmisel aastal esimest korda toimunud turniir oma eesmärki täielikult: „Suutsime koguda küllaltki suure summa Rosma kooli sööklale ahju ostmiseks – heaks abiliseks oli siinkohal Electrolux. Lisaks loomulikult hea vastuvõtt osa võtnud restoranide poolt. Loodetavasti suudame eelmise aasta edukat turniiri korrata.“ Käesoleval aastal on Electroluxi kõrval headeks toetajateks veel Eesti Jalgpalli Liit ja Carmen Catering.

Sel aastal on lotopiletite müümine muutunud lihtsamaks ning seda saab igaüks peagi teha näiteks turniirist osa võtvas restoranis einestades. Küsige siis aga julgesti loteriipileteid!

Eelmisel aastal viis Chefs Cupi võidukarika koju Swissoteli meeskond.

Esimese, Chefs Cup 2011 võitja Swissoteli meeskond

Interview for ‘Around the Food’ blog

Hi everybody! I know it has been a while, but you know – it’s summertime here in Estonia and everybody’s working like crazy. I mean at least those who are spending their days in professional kitchens – it’s definitely the busiest time of year.

Anyway, I thought I will guide you to a little interview made by a great blog – a little brother of Best Emerging Chefs, called Around the Food. As we mainly talked about our culinary event 20 by 8, that has really been getting attention abroad lately I thought I illustrate the interview with some pictures here as well.

So, hopefully next week I get to write about what happened at the MAD Symposium in Copenhagen in the meanwhile stay tuned and of course, enjoy the summer! 🙂

Peeter

The interview can be found here

Weed

Reindeer rump

 

20 by 8 Zero Waste event

 

20 by 8 Zero Waste Reindeer brain

Foodball tõi kokad kokku jalkamurul

Kuuleme üpris tihti riikide ja rahvuste kultuurilisest erinevusest, sellest, kuidas multikultuursed ühiskonnad ei toimi jne jne. Ometi on asju, mis neid erineva kultuuritaustaga inimesi ühendavad – olgu selleks siis muusika, armastus toidu vastu või jalgpall. Just kaks viimasena nimetatut tõid juba viiendat korda Kopenhaagenisse kokku Skandinaavia restoranid, et heategevuslikel eesmärkidel pidada maha järjekordne vutiturniir Foodball, millega juhitakse tähelepanu puudust kannatavatele inimestele ning õnneloteriiga kogutakse raha näljahädas olevate inimeste abistamiseks läbi rahvusvahelise organisatsiooni ‘Action Against Hunger‘. Pädaste Mõisa Alexander Restoran osales turniiril teistkordselt.

Antud turniiri puhul on ühtviisi olulised nii mõnus sportlik hasart kui ka võimalus heategevuses osaleda, kuid kõige olulisem on minu arvates vahetu suhtlemisvõimalus maailma tippu kuuluvate restoranide vahel. Olgem ausad – ega ju kokad omavahel väga sageli kohtu, ehk vaid toidumessidel, vähestel konverentsidel või siis ka kokandusvõistlustel, kuid see on ikkagi pigem selline töine ja formaalsem õhkkond. Varavalgest hiliste õhtutundideni toimetatakse oma köökides ja sotsialiseerumiseks ametivendadega aega napib. Käesoleval aastal oli meil eriliselt hea võimalus silma paista, kui ainukene meeskond, mis võttis nii pika reisi ette võtta. OK, turniir ei läinud meil mänguliselt ehk nii hästi kui lootsime, kuid kõik osalenud restoranid hindasid Pädaste meeskonna südikust võtta ette pikk teekond niigi vähese uneaja arvelt ning tulla kolleegidega jalkamurule palli taga ajama. Ametivendade kiitus ja head sõnad teevad alati häädmeelt. Kusjuures parimad sooritused tegime turniiril just maailma restoranide koorekihti kuuluvate Taani restoranide vastu – viigipunktid meelitasime välja ühelt Kopenhaageni praeguse hetke tõusvalt kokandusstaarilt, restoranilt Relae ning positiivseima elamuse pakkus revanšivõimalus maailma parimalt restoranilt Noma, keda tasavägises võitluses lõpuks ka võitsime. Samas, eks Foodballi turniiril visataksegi tihtipeale nalja restoranide kokandusliku taseme ja jalgpallimänguoskuse seose üle. Turniiri võitis juba kolmandat korda Cofoco meeskond.

Mina julgen küll väita, et juba teistkorda turniirist osa võtmine on meid päris hästi tutvustanud meie regiooni kokandustippude hulgas – meie tegemisi jälgitakse ja meie käekäigu vastu tuntakse elavat huvi. Sellist tähelepanu ei maksa kindlasti alahinnata. Niisugused mitteformaalsed kohtumised aitavad Eesti kokandust maailmakaardile pea sama hästi, kui edukas esinemine mõnel kokandusvõistlusel. See on ainulaadne võimalus saada kokku ning vahetada kogemusi ja kontakte maailma absoluutsesse eliiti kuuluvate restoranide ja kokkadega. See on ka heaks võimaluseks tutvustada Eesti toidukultuuri ning huvi selle vastu on iga aastaga järjest kasvamas, mida võis täheldada ka eelmise aasta turniiril – ehk on just sellised mitteformaalses õhkkonnas toimuvad kohtumised aluseks kasvõi sellele, et näeme ühel heal päeval Eesti kokkasid töötamas maailma tipprestoranides või välismaiseid staarkokkasid oma oskusi praktiseerimas mõnes Eesti kulinaaria lipulaevas.

Foodball on lisaks professionaalsete võrgustike arendamisele andnud inspiratsiooni ka sarnase turniiri korraldamiseks Eestis ning tänavu toimub Tallinnas juba teistkordselt Eesti kokkade heategevuslik jalgpalliturniir ‘Chefs’ Cup’. Võimalik, et suudame käesoleval aastal muuta oma turniiri samuti rahvusvaheliseks ning septembris saabub siia võistlema ka mõni kokkade jalkatiim piiritagant.

Loomulikult ei saa sellised turniirid toimuma ilma lahkete abistajate tummise toetuseta. Kergitan oma mütsi ja teen sügava kummarduse kõigi meie toetajate ees – köögitehnikatootja Electrolux, Saaremaa Lihatööstus, Audi Eesti ja Frische Paradies. Ma ei saa tänamata jätta ka Noma ja The Fat Duck‘i kunagist kokka Daniel Burnsi – heas mõttes hullu Kanadast pärit tüüpi, kes Foodballi turniiri algatanud on ja igal aastal spetsiaalselt selleks Kopenhaagenisse sõidab, et Skandinaavia kokad saaks üheks toredaks pühapäevaseks päevaks kokku tulla, jalkat mängida ja omavahel mõnusalt vahetus õhkkonnas suhelda.

Alexander Restorani meeskond Foodball 2012 turniiril

Foodball 2012 poster

Foodballi võiduvaagna viis kolmandat korda koju Cofoco meeskond

Üks Taani ägedaim õlletootja Mikkeller oli Foodballi tarbeks pruulinud spetsiaalse õlle – poseerib pildil koos kokk/väravavaht Aksaluga

Team of young chefs showed their skills at Pädaste

We sure took on a challenge this time with our last event from the ’20 by 8′ series – inviting 5 young and talented Estonian chefs to join with Pädaste culinary team. Each of them had a task in hand to prepare 1 course in a 5 course dinner and to do so raw! In future this team of 5 young chefs will most likely participate in the Culinary Olympics held in Luxembourg in 2014.

Our culinary happening actually already started in the afternoon when the young folks had a raffle to get their mentors and had to pick their main produce for preparing their course. The variety of produce was rich and not all so common – we had seal meat, cod cheeks, cured Scottish highlander, white fish, pike perch bottarga, white asparagus and lamb fillet. Although chefs had to keep in mind, they couldn’t go any higher than 37 C when cooking, we still made a little exception to the preparation of the main course, allowing to use living fire – we heated the stones in fire and cooked the lamb straight in the dining room on the fiery stones.

What can I say in conclusion…well, most of all, I hope that other restaurants pick up the good vibe we started and host our future talents in their kitchens and share their know-how. The dinner was a success and feedback was more than positive. We also gave the tips of the night to the young chefs to go and visit this years Culinary Olympics in Erfurt.

I take a bow to all the young chefs who participated and to my team who gave them a warm and hearty welcome!

Enjoy the wonderful pictures by Lauri Laan

Smile! Our expanded culinary team for the day

Pädaste horticulturist Anna is lecturing the chefs

Lecture continues in front of the manor house

Laying out the battle plan

And…we are live!

Best from garden and forest

Weed

Whitefish with seaherbs consommé

Cured Scottish highlander with hay milk and wild herbs

Lamb fillet from Sarapiku farm roasted on heated stones with sea arrow grass sauce and cream

 

We are going RAW

20by8

For quite some time now we have been organizing special events for all the foodies out there, we call it 20by8 – first at Neh and now at Alexander Restaurant. This forthcoming event is going to be something special as it is somewhat a test for our young Estonian chefs – all on  route to perfection in their home-kitchens, now coming together as a team (going to represent Estonia in Culinary Olympics in 2014)  to take on a task of foraging the woods, finding wild plants and a cooking at a temperature that may not exceed 37° C…. Yes, we are going RAW this time around in our 20by8 culinary happening! I will give you a brief overview how it all went down probably in the next week – so stay tuned to Kitchencrunch!

An exclusive ‘20 by 8’ Culinary Event at Alexander Restaurant – Pädaste Manor on 26 May

This time we have invited five talented Estonian chefs to join the Pädaste culinary team and rise to the occasion. With our guidance these young chefs are set to create a fabulous five-course dinner.

The five promising young talents are members of the Estonian Young Chefs Team which will participate in the 2014 Culinary Olympics in Germany. Pädaste Manor – as a leading restaurant in Estonia – takes this initiative to encourage the team, pass on knowledge and motivate the “future generation” of Estonian gastronomy.

Diners participating in ‘Raw’ are also invited to join in with some of the day-time fun! Under the guidance of our horticulturist Anna–Liisa Piiroja, our clients and chefs are heading for the woods and meadows to gather wild produce. The foraging trip departs from Pädaste on Saturday at noon.

Click here for further info about Raw
* 20 by 8 is as much about discovery of food as about meeting with fellow members of the foodie tribe, hence a certain culinary curiosity is a pre-requisite – however, the true joy of 20 by 8 is very much about socializing at table.

** Any tips left on this evening will go towards the travel budget of the 2014 Estonian Culinary Olympic Team. Your generosity in support of these fine young chefs is very much appreciated!

‘20 by 8’ arrangement includes accommodation on Saturday night and prices start at €192 per person, based on double occupancy and subject to the chosen room category. Naturally this all inclusive arrangement comprises the dinner event with a sumptuous selection of dishes, wines and after dinner drinks on 26 May.

Please note the foraging trip starts at noon and we welcome guests for dinner at 8pm

For reservations contact info@padaste.ee

Lichen and moss

As the nature is still a bit sleepy after a long rough winter, it is hard to find anything to use from the wild. We walked around the nearby forests together with Anna-Liisa who is the horticulturist of Pädaste Manor and educated ourselves about moss and lichen. There’s a simple truth about those two, you will also find out from our clip.

 

Besides the similarity in nomination, there’s not much in common. For a quick reminder: Moss is a green plant with stems and leaves, lichen doesn’t have them and they belong among fungus. Lichen first and foremost reminds me of seaweeds – the texture and culinary qualities are very similar. Before you take any moss or lichen with you from the wild in large quantities, think twice – some of the moss species may take decades to grow.